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Most people conceive of gender as an informed response to a biological imperative. But such notions are overturned by certain women in regions of Albania who elect to "become" men simply for the advantages that accrue to them as a result. This book tells the frank stories of these women.

Explores Goths' expressive practices of dress, fashion, style and the body, in relation to issues of identity and representation. This book shares accounts of the author's experiences exploring gender and sexuality and doing fieldwork in the Gothic subculture.

Changing trends in fashion have always reflected large-scale social and cultural changes. This title presents a multi-disciplinary approach to examining fashion change, bringing together theory from fashion studies, cultural studies, sociology, psychology and art history, amongst others. It is intended for the undergraduate student of fashion.

Quilting, once regarded as a traditional craft, has broken through the barriers of history, art and commerce to become a global phenomenon, international multi-billion dollar industry and means of gendered cultural production. This book explores how and why women quilt.

Goths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, this book details the inner workings of this intriguing group.

Through rich ethnographic detail and cutting-edge theory, DIY Style tells the fascinating story of an international do-it-yourself (DIY) movement through a major case study of the "indie" music and fashion scene in Indonesia.

Presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. This book is useful for those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes.

From fascists to fashionistas, this work looks at clothing and its cultural meaning in our everyday lives. Tracing the troubling connections amongst religious orders, the military, schools and fetish clubs, it shows how uniforms control bodies and enable subversion. It shows how the uniform inspires fear and love, conformity and subversion.

The popularity of uniforms in Japan suggests important linkages: material culture, politico-economic projects, bodily management, and the construction of subjectivity are all connected to the wearing of uniforms. This book examines what the donning of uniforms says about cultural psychology and the expression of economic nationalism in Japan.

Corsets, and the corseted body, have been fetishized, mythologized, romanticized. This Victorian icon has inspired debate that is unrivalled by any other article of clothing. This book examines the role of corsetry in the minds and lives of Victorian women.

This accessible study of religious dress practices contains case studies on a wide range of religious groups, including: Catholics, Jews, Hindus, Druids, Shamans, and Mystics. Its unique sensory approach will appeal to scholars and students across many disciplines.

Wedding clothes are not only distinctive forms of dress, but are also steeped in years of cultural tradition. This book, drawing on case studies from around the world, considers how wedding attire is both a statement of tradition and a vehicle for challenging social norms.

Examines what the donning of uniforms says about cultural psychology and the expression of economic nationalism in Japan. Drawing on examples, this book focuses particularly on student uniforms, which are key socializing objects in Japan's politico-economic order, but also examines 'office ladies', 'salary men', service personnel, and housewives.

Drawing on primary fieldwork, this book offers a cross-cultural study of transvestism through an examination of transvestites in Britain and the Hijras of India. The author tackles the question of whether or not transvestism is motivated primarily by sex or gender, and she challenges the straightforward binary divide in Western theories of gender.

Presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. This book is useful for those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes.

Asian fashion has become a global phenomenon of economic, political and social import. But the industry in Asia remains characterized by the gap between traditional centres of fashion and the marginalized periphery. This book explores Asian fashion in a global economic and cultural context.

Asian fashion has become a global phenomenon of economic, political and social import. But the industry in Asia remains characterized by the gap between traditional centres of fashion and the marginalized periphery. This book explores Asian fashion in a global economic and cultural context.

While highlighting how the gender identity of transsexuals relates to hormonal and surgical changes in the body as well as to changes in dress, this text investigates the pressures and motivations to conform to expected gender roles, and the ways in which these are affected.

Deals comprehensively with German fashion from World War I through to the end of the Third Reich. This book explores the failed attempt by the Nazi state to construct a female image. It details the inner workings of a government-supported fashion institute and an organization established to help aryanize the German fashion world.

This is the first comprehensive account of Jewish clothing, both profane and sacred, from its origins through to the present day. Focusing on tensions over gender, ethnic identity and assimilation, each chapter discusses the meaning and symbolism of a specific era or type of Jewish dress, whether traditional or contemporary.