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While highlighting how the gender identity of transsexuals relates to hormonal and surgical changes in the body as well as to changes in dress, this text investigates the pressures and motivations to conform to expected gender roles, and the ways in which these are affected.

Deals comprehensively with German fashion from World War I through to the end of the Third Reich. This book explores the failed attempt by the Nazi state to construct a female image. It details the inner workings of a government-supported fashion institute and an organization established to help aryanize the German fashion world.

This is the first comprehensive account of Jewish clothing, both profane and sacred, from its origins through to the present day. Focusing on tensions over gender, ethnic identity and assimilation, each chapter discusses the meaning and symbolism of a specific era or type of Jewish dress, whether traditional or contemporary.

Examines how aesthetic products are defined, distributed and valued. This book focuses on the work of some of the market agents, particularly model agents or 'bookers' and fashion buyers, shaping the aesthetics inside their markets. It develops a theoretical framework for understanding the distinctive features of aesthetic marketplaces.

Americans began the twentieth century standing in Europe's sartorial shadow, yet ended by outfitting the world in blue jeans, T-shirts and sneakers.

Transnational movements of people, cultural objects, images and identities have played a vital role in creating an informal global network for African fashion. This book traces the changing meanings, aesthetics and histories of the thriving informal African fashion network.

British fashion is characterized by oppositions: punk versus pageantry, anarchy versus monarchy, Cool Britannia versus Rule Britannia. This book provides telling insights into the culture of fashion and the dilemmas of 'going global'. It argues that 'Britishness' is characterized less through a particular look than through its ambiguities.

This is the first anthropological study of the contemporary Chinese fashion and textile industries from high-end designer clothing to mass manufacture.

Provides a comprehensive account of modern Chinese fashion since 1978. This book offers an analysis of the development of the Chinese fashion industry as well as an analysis of the relationship between dress, gender, identity and consumption in contemporary China. It is suitable for students of fashion and textiles.

This accessible study of religious dress practices contains case studies on a wide range of religious groups, including: Catholics, Jews, Hindus, Druids, Shamans, and Mystics. Its unique sensory approach will appeal to scholars and students across many disciplines.

Competitive ballroom is much more than a style of dance. This book explores the intersection of dance cultures, dress and the body. It shows how dancing influences mind and body alike. It provides an ethnographic picture of how dancers and others live their lives both on and off the dance floor.

Drawing examples from a range of African cultures, this book focuses on the art patronage systems that stimulate production, consumption, commodification and cultural meaning, and emphasizes the importance of cloth to aesthetic and cultural expression in African societies.

Moving from first hand interviews with dancers and others, this book broadens into an accessible examination of the popularity of "striptease culture," with sex-saturated media imagery, and stripper aerobics at your local gym. It aims to scrutinize the truth of a industry whose norms are increasingly at the center of contemporary society.

Explores Goths' expressive practices of dress, fashion, style and the body, in relation to issues of identity and representation. This book shares accounts of the author's experiences exploring gender and sexuality and doing fieldwork in the Gothic subculture.

Changing trends in fashion have always reflected large-scale social and cultural changes. This title presents a multi-disciplinary approach to examining fashion change, bringing together theory from fashion studies, cultural studies, sociology, psychology and art history, amongst others. It is intended for the undergraduate student of fashion.

Quilting, once regarded as a traditional craft, has broken through the barriers of history, art and commerce to become a global phenomenon, international multi-billion dollar industry and means of gendered cultural production. This book explores how and why women quilt.

Goths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, this book details the inner workings of this intriguing group.

Through rich ethnographic detail and cutting-edge theory, DIY Style tells the fascinating story of an international do-it-yourself (DIY) movement through a major case study of the "indie" music and fashion scene in Indonesia.